So I've been saving up for some saltwater stuff for quite some time now, and finally managed to get enough to get started. I set it up a few days ago, and heres what I have for the moment.

Hood that holds two screw in type bulbs at 25 watts.
Regent 100gph hob filter
whisper 50 watt heater
two pieces of live rock
about 2-3" of live sand

My salinity is reading between 24 and 22, I'd say just a little under 23. Temp changes daily from about 74-78 degrees. I think the heater may be a LITTLE off. Before I add fish, I'll replace it.

Just have a few basic questions for you as this is the first s/w tank that I have ever had. I'd like to get some answers from others who have had first hand experience with salt water tanks. It's one thing to read about it in a book, and another to actually keep one.

How long should I cycle the tank? How can I start the cycle?

How is a water change done? The same as freshwater?

How can I tell if live rock is actually alive?

What kind of fish could I keep in a tank like this? I'd like some snails or crabs, and a fish or two.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks

Hey MAZZA. Welcome to the dark side. B)

It is fine that there were no lights above the tub where the live rock was. Many lfs keep there live rock in tubs without any light. Some live rock just looks rather bare, but don't worry it is still alive and you will start to notice the different critters once your tank has been running. When Cured or uncured live rock is exposed to air there will be some die off, so the rock has to go through a curing process. You can either place the rock in the tank and cure it there or cure it in a seperate container. Was the rock that you bought uncured or cured? I'm guessing that the rock is already in your tank which is fine just watch the rock for any dead matter like dead sponges, as you would need to take the rock out and remove them or scrub it. Test the water throughout the cycle and make small water changes.


As far as your lighting choice goes two 25w PC screw in's are fine for a FOWLR, but imo aren't very good for corals, although you might be able you keep low light corals, but I have not tried those corals with that light so I can't say for sure.

You also want to have adequate flow in your tank via two small powerheads greating around 10-15X turnover, so 100-150 but 200gph is even better. The reason why two powerheads is better than one is because you will have distributed flow throughout the tank. If you notice that you don't have enough surface agitation then I would point one powerhead at the surface but if you do then point both at different spots in the tank.

HOB filter. As for media you could run just some carbon and that's it. Another option is a sponge and carbon, but sponges and such are nitrate sinks meaning any debris that gets cought in the sponge can cause high nitrates overtime. If you do decide to to use a sponge then you should rinse it out at least every few days, but each day is perferred. You could also just run the filter for added flow, but keep some carbon on hand.

Since this is your first saltwater tank you could keep the tank invert only as that would put less strain on the tank. If you do want to add fish then only 1 small fish would work in a 10 gallon, so some good small fish would be Clown Gobies, Firefish, Percula or Ocellaris Clownfish. You will want a good cleanup crew to take care of algae, and detritus. Nassarius snails, Margarita snails, and Scarlet Reef Hermits do a good job, but there are many others to choose from, but remember don't add too many, as overtime the food supply may diminish and they would starve. I add my cleanup crew as I need them, for example I add a few to start with and see how it goes and if I need to add more then I do.

I guess you could say it's similiar but takes alittle more work. First I want to say that I encourage you to use RO(Reverse Osmosis) water in your tank, as it has less impurities versus tap water. If you don't have a unit then you would have to go to a grocery store and fill up 1g bottles, but it is worth it. If you don't use RO water then use distilled as it is better to use then tap water.

First take a 5g bucket and add your water(tap, RO, or distilled) to the bucket along with enough salt for 5 gallons of water. Throw in a powerhead in the bucket as that will mix the salt and keep it mixed, and some also use a heater to match the tank water to the water change water which is a good idea but if you do be sure to use a thermometer to test the water. Now that you have the water, salt, powerhead, and heater in the bucket let it sit for at around 24 hours as that will give time for the salt to get fully dissolved and the correct temp. An important thing to do is test the salinity of the water change water throughout the 24 hours to make sure it matches the tank water, and if you have to make changes then do it way before it is time for the change.

Okay so you have let the water sit for 24 hours now it is time to get ready to do the water change. Take out the amount of water from your tank anywhere from 10-20% but it depends on each water change. Now you have to refill the tank, and I try to add newly mixed saltwater to my tanks slowly. I actually siliconed airline tubing to the outlet of a Rio50 powerhead and I use that to pump water into my tank, and it does it really slowly. You could add water using a small cup or some other device.

Also salinity level of 1.023-1.026 is what you want to aim for.

Are you thinking of running a protein skimmer on the tank? If you have anymore questions just ask.:)

Thanks for the great tips. As far as the live rock go, should I have an ammonia source in there? The rock was supposedly cured when I bought it.

I like the idea of having some scarlet reef hermit crabs, a few snails, and a cool looking goby. Any idea how many I could have? I'm actually considering buying a much larger tank, a 55 gallon for my s/w endeavors.

Better yet, I might move my two blood parrots and peacock eel and senegal bichir to the 55 gallon, and turn the 40 gallon breeder into a salt water tank. Do you think the rocks would go through the bottom? Then again, most tanks don't have a tempered glass bottom, especially the odd shaped ones.

That would be the best route for me, if it would work. Who knows. I may put the parrots and eels in the 40 gallon and use the 55 for my salt water tank.

As far as the power heads go, is that too much turnover on a 10 gallon tank? Also, when should I add the hermit crabs? I'd like to add them as soon as I can. Speaking of powerheads, I need to pick up one or two anyway. Are the cheap ones just as good as the high dollar ones? I hate to spend too much money. I'm going too have to buy some more salt soon anyway.

10x15 per gallon on each powerhead? or all together?

Thanks again for the help.

One thing you could do if your unsure is throw in a small piece of cocktail shrimp in your tank. Also you leave the shrimp in until it decays, or until ammonia and nitrIte both spike and return to 0ppm, whichever comes first.

These would be for the 10g correct? is so I say 3-4 Hermit crabs, it depends on the snails but around 3-4, and a small Clown Goby would be perfect for a 10 gallon tank. I really like Nassarius Snails as they are great detritus eaters and will also consume uneated food, decaying organics, and fish waste. They also move through the sand airating it. Margarita Snails also do a good job with algae. Other snails that people like are Cerith, Astraea, and Trochus snails. As I stated before only add your cleanup crew as you need them, so only start out with a few.

Many people including experienced hobbyists say that laying rock directly on the sandbed without any support structure is perfectly fine, and I have never used any support system. Some people use Eggcrate or PVC structure under their rock, but it is not needed IME, but you could do it if you wish.

For a FOWLR around 10-15x turnover is best. In saltwater tanks good amount of flow is essential to a successful tank. So you want to aim for 100-150gph, but around 200gph would be better. Also try and use two powerheads instead of one as you want an equal amount of flow throughout the tank. Well what do you consider cheap? I really like to have reliable powerheads. Some good Powerheads are AquaClear, Mini-jets, Micro-jets, and Maxi-jets. I have 4 Maxi-jet 1200's in my 55g FOWLR and love them. You could check out http://bigalsonline.com/index.xml?splash_done=1 as I have found their prices to be very reasonable, but you could also check Ebay for used powerheads.

I mean 10-15x turnover so 10g tank x 10-15 turnover=100-150 gallons per hour. Around 200 gallons per hour is better though.

I would actually wait until the tank has cycled before adding your cleanup crew and fish.

So you are going to stick with a 10g saltwater tank first correct? and then later on upgrade to a 40 or 55 gallon. :)

So, at 150-200 gph, is that for each powerhead or all together gph? Two powerheads rated at 75 - 100 a piece? Or two at 150-200 gph a piece?

Anything I put in the 10 gallon is going to be moved to a bigger tank. No doubt about it. I'm going to try and buy some more live rock and a powerhead tomorrow. Not sure where to pick up a cocktail shrimp around here. If the rock is uncured, will it become cured if I put in an ammonia source?

Could I have a pair of hi fin red banded gobies and a smaller cleanup crew? I love the way they look. Of course if I went with a 55 gallon, I'd like to move them over and then go with... A domino damsel, a 3-stripe damselfish, a yellow hawaiian tang, and maybe a Kaudern's Cardinalfish or two.

Of course, all those can be changed, but those are the fish I like. I definitely want the gobies, or some blennies for sure.

Remember, anything that goes in this tank is going to be moved to a bigger tank shortly after I move into my new house, which should be about the end of april. The tank will probably be cycled before then anyhow. The 10 gallon seems to evaporate water very quickly. I noticed Friday that I was at 1.022? And today it's at 1.024.

As far as the water changes go, I can buy a cheap heater to go in my 5 gallon bucket. I can purchase two power heads and then take one of them out when it comes time to mix my water I guess.

Could I get rid of the HOB filter and just buy some more live rock? Is that a possibility? It seems that if I go with the power heads, it's going to throw sand EVERYWHERE. I'd hate to ruin a perfectly good filter. It would work well on a hospital tank. If all else fails, it'll go on my 29 gallon. I've got some extra room.

150-200gph total, but since you are going to upgrade to a bigger tank in the near future you might as well get only one powerhead that produces a higher gph.

The reason I said to add a piece of cocktail shrimp is to jump start the cycle since you were not sure it the live rock would produce enough die off. You should be able to pick up a cocktail shrimp at a grocery store.

Well after the 10g is cycled then yeah you could keep a pair temperarely, but should be moved to the 55g once it is cycled. As for your fish choice for a 55 gallon, Damsels are aggressive and nasty fish ime, so I wouldn't house any peaceful fish with them. Imo a 55 gallon is too small for any Tang species as they love to swim. Are you planning on having a refugium connected to your display tank? You should also consider using a protein skimmer on your 55 gallon. What do you have planned for your 55 gallon?

Is the tank open top? meaning no hood. Yeah water evaporates very quickly in a saltwater tank especially in a tank with no top and high lighting.

Yeah you can certainly get rid of the HOB filter. Alot of people use this method for smaller tanks where you just have a bunch of live rock and powerheads for flow.

I'll see what I can do about purchasing the larger power head. When mixing the salt, could I pull the power head out of the tank to mix it? Or should I just buy a smaller one to use just for mixing salt?

As far as the live rock goes.... can base rock become live just by adding an ammonia source? I'm beginning to believe that since there wasn't any lighting on the rock at the pet store that it was just base rock. There appears to be a small sponge on one of the pieces, but it doesn't appear to be alive. I'm not sure since I've never owned a salt water tank. If it does turn out to be just base rock, does adding an ammonia source make it live rock? Or will I have to find a true piece of live rock?

When purchasing live rock, what am I looking for to know that it is live?

I'm hoping to purchase a skimmer for the 55 gallon, if I end up going that route. Im planning on setting up a sump, perhaps to be used as a refugium or extra place to hold live rock. I'm also thinking of using my aquaclear 70 as a small refugium, but I'm not sure. I guess it just depends.

I'm going to purchase a larger powerhead for the 10 gallon tank for flow, and then I'm going to purchase a smaller powerhead to be used for mixing salt. I should be able to buy them for under $20 at my LFS's.

Not sure about the exact plans for my 55. I still need to do a lot of research. I definitely want some gobies or blennies though. They have always been some of the neatest saltwater fish, IMO.

The 10 gallon I have now has the 25 watt screw in bulbs and a hood to cover the tank. It's odd it evaporates so quickly, but I had that problem when the tank was freshwater, too. I guess I'll just have some top off water on hand to refill the tank when it needs it.

Thanks for all the quick helpful replies, btw. You are making the transition to salt MUCH easier.

Well it would be best to leave a powerhead in the bucket to mix the salt for the whole 24 hours, so it will get completely dissolved. You just need a small powerhead for mixing salt, like around 50gph would be fine.

The live rock that I purchased for my 2.5g came from a lfs who kept their live rock in black tubs in the back of the store with no light above the tank, and when I first bought the rock it had alittle algae and color but was mostly bare. If it was sold to you as live rock it probably is live rock, so don't worry. What makes Live Rock Live is not the actual rock itself but the marine life that live on and in the rock. The rock itself is just calcium carbonate of dead coral skeletons. Here are two pics of the live rock in my tank when I first bought it and 3-4 months after it had been in the tank and you can see the difference.

Before


After

With flash



Without flash



Now this after shot was taken about 3 months after I started the tank, and as you can see it went from mostly white and bare to covered with green, red, and purples. There was also tons of Pods, Polychaete worms, and flatworms at that time, so it takes time to see the different life that you will get.

An AquaClear 70 as a refugium is pretty much useless for a larger tank such as a 55g. An AquaClear 70 can be used as a refugium on small tanks 10 gallons or less. You would be better off with a 20-30 gallon sump.

Hey no problem I'm happy I can help. :)

Thanks for the pictures. Those really helped. That's exactly what my live rock looks like. I'm going to try and get that other piece tomorrow, so I'm sure that will give me around 10 lbs of live rock. I'll have to find a cheap heater to heat up the salt mix. Hopefully one of those won't set me too far back. Is a hang on back heater ok? or will a submersible be better?

Is light necessary for live rock? I've got a 40 watt fixture on my 40 gallon, could it support live rock if I wanted to go salt with it?

The aquaclear 70 will be put on my 29 gallon, I guess. I've just got a P-200 on there right now, so the extra filtration certainly wouldn't hurt.

I think that a 40 watt would be good enough for live rocks. I think they need about 2 watt per gallon though.

And hey perfectblue. I just order a duel compact light. 130 watt. What kind of coral is that good for? Is it ok for soft coral. Comes with a 12k and a atinic blue light.

I've just read up that live rock actually doesn't NEED light, just good water flow. Is there any truth to that?

I'm not sure, But maybe 1 watt per gallon should be good enough :D It also looks better with light too :P

Well if you use a 5 gallon bucket, and use some water for a water change the water level will decrease, and HOB heaters have to be somewhat submerged. A submersible heater would be better as you can place it close to the bottom of the bucket. Some people don't even use a heater when mixing salt, but it is a good idea.

For live rock to function as a biological filter no it doesn't require any light, but it will lose most of what makes it live. Is it 40watts of NO fluorescent lighting? is so then yes that is perfectly fine for a FOWLR. Corals however would need more intense lighting such as PowerCompact, Metal Halide, etc.

It's just a single tube all glass aquarium strip light with a 25 watt bulb. The whole fixture is capable of handling 28 watts I believe. So 40 watts should be able to sustain life with nothing dieing off? Not too concerned about corals, as I'd just like to have the FOWLR. I know I'll have to buy a new bulb, but even then, only if I decide to use the 40 gallon as the salt water. In your opinion, which would be better?

A 55 gallon, or a 40 gallon breeder at 36x18x16?

The 55 is just a little longer and taller, but the 40 breeder has a bigger 'footprint'.

Yes 40watts of NO fluorescent lighting is fine for a 40 or 55 gallon FOWLR. Well as you may know I have a 55 gallon FOWLR and I do like the height and length but width could be alittle wider. A 40 gallon breeder has a great footprint. It is your choice which tank you want to use. Also keep me updated on how your first saltwater tank is doing, and if you have anymore questions just ask. :)

The 10 gallon is really coming along. I'm hoping that I can pick up another piece of live rock or two as well as maybe a snail or hermit crab. I'm going to see what they can do about ordering a power head for me. I think the first mistake I made was not thorougly mixing the salt before I put it in. I noticed some was left down at the bottom, so I think that's why my specific gravity is rising. Hmm, tough, tough decision. I may give the eel and the senegal bichir and the parrots the 40 gallon, just because it will give them more turn around room.

The fish I put in the 55, if I don't go with a 75, are going to be smaller than 12 inches.